where to find Lenten prayers in the weeks before Easter. |
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Nuns in Rome for Lenten prayers. |
You won’t find the usual Italian celebrations and carnivals - Lent is a sombre period - but you will find places to go if you want some quiet time for prayers and reflection.
Throughout the city there is a separate church each day where the faithful gather for special prayers. These, over the forty days from Ash Wednesday to Easter Sunday, form Rome’s Lent calendar.
‘Station Churches’ - what are they?
‘Station’ is taken from the Latin word ‘statio’ - a stopping point. Station churches are simply those places which have been specially designated to be the location for worship on a particular day during Rome’s Lent calendar.
The tradition of pilgrimage to a particular holy place has existed for centuries. Rome’s ‘stations’ began with the Crusaders who saw processions in Jerusalem when the faithful followed the path Our Lord had taken to the place of his crucifixion.
They brought the custom back to Europe, and this particular Italian Lenten tradition began in the fourth century.
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The American church in Rome, Santa Susanna, is one of the Lenten calendar places of worship. |
But instead of processing to a single place, the Italian version saw the collecting of pilgrims at a central point from where they were led to a different church each day.
And so, the tradition of ‘Station Churches’ was born.
What actually happens during Rome’s Lent calendar?
There are now no processions from Church to Church. Rather, a different church each day is the focal point for Lent prayers.
The main Mass of the day usually starts at 7 a.m., to allow for people wishing to attend before work, but there are generally prayers said throughout the day, often in different languages, allowing for the many hundreds of pilgrims from all over the world who come to join in.
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Santa Maria Maggiore, one of Rome's Papal Basilicas. |
Some churches - Santa Maria Maggiore, for example - display their relics on their ‘station day’ and as well as Mass, Lent prayers are offered to the specific saint after whom the church is named as well as to the different martyrs and saints of Rome. Time is always allowed for reflection on their lives and example.
There may also be a meditation on the different ‘Stations of the Cross’.
This Lent calendar in Rome is not a tourist attraction.
It’s a real reflection of the religious beliefs of the faithful, and as well as many pilgrims from within and outside Italy, a large number of people who live and work in Rome attend - often going to Mass on every one of the Lenten days.
What is the significance of a Lent calendar in this day and age?
It is, quite simply, a public testament to faith, and a chance for people to gather together not just to worship but to encourage each other through the sombre days of Lenten fasting..
Although many of the people who attend are Roman Catholic, by no means all are. People of all religions - or none - are welcomed into a very public demonstration of community, or as the Pope put it :
“It is a conscious reminder that we are part of one Christian family moving together towards God through the sacrifice of the Mass.”
Where do the Lent prayers take place?
This link will take you to the Vatican’s own Lent calendar page which each year updates its list of churches and times. You will find a link to each of the individual churches here for addresses and further details, although most of the individual information is in Italian only.
Are there any particularly special locations?
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The beautiful church of Santa Sabina, |
The Basilica of Santa Sabina is a magnificent church in its own right, and is the church where traditionally the Pope celebrates Mass on Ash Wednesday. This is an afternoon event, when ashes are used to make the sign of the cross on penitents’ foreheads.
Santa Maria Maggiore is a Papal Basilica - the high altar with its magnificent canopy can be used by the Pope alone - and is the venue on three separate days in Lent, although the Pope himself won’t necessarily be there.
On Holy Thursday, the day before Good Friday in Rome, the Pope traditionally says early evening Mass at the Basilica of San Giovanni in Laterano (St John Lateran) when he also washes the feet of priests to symbolise the humility of his office.
St Peter’s Basilica is obviously a focal point for the Catholic Church at Easter and it is here the Pope celebrates Mass on both Palm Sunday - the Sunday before Easter - and Good Friday.
And, although it’s not one of the Station Churches, if you’re in Rome on Good Friday it’s well worth seeing the ‘Way of the Cross’, celebrated by the Pope at the Colosseum.
Is it worth joining in Rome’s Lent calendar?
Absolutely, particularly if your religion - whichever it may be - is important to you.
Lent is a quiet time in Rome. There are the same things to do as at other times, but the city takes on a generally more sombre, thoughtful air. It is a time before the crowds of Easter take over the city, and the Lent calendar prayers as celebrated here are unique to the Eternal City.
So it may not be the usual type of Italian celebration, but it's an unique and worthwhile experience.
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All the churches are worth visiting at any time - this is the font in St John Lateran. |
How to join in?
Use our link to the official Vatican calendar to identify which church is the ‘station of the day’, and use the link to that church to find out where it is and the time of the main Mass.
If you’re not sure of the times, identify the church and ask your hotel to check the times for you - your concierge should have a list.
If you’re going to one of the better known churches make sure you get there early, particularly for the stations on Ash Wednesday, Holy Thursday and Good Friday.
Don’t worry if you’re not Catholic. Any denomination - or none - is welcome.
But do make sure you observe Italian religious etiquette. Dress respectfully - no shorts or bare arms - and don’t expect to be allowed to take photographs during the service, or to walk around the church.
Remember - the Lent calendar is not set up as a tourist attraction.
It’s a centuries old religious observance taken very seriously by those who attend. Treat it with respect, and you’ll be fine.
If you're going to the Colosseum for the Good Friday 'Stations of the Cross', have a look at some strange facts about the Colosseum before you go.
Need some words in Italian to send cards to your friends or relatives in Italy? Have a look at our Italian Easter sayings for some easy examples.
Rome's Lent calendar to our home page about Italian culture.